Primer paint?

[fulgator]

hello

need for your accuracy

i am searching and orders some paint , (with all your commentaries, I only can return to paint !! )

is the bomb of black paint from prince august for primer a good one ??
prince august is vallejo for france, i think.....

is it better to make primer with brush or bomb ?

thanks

[T. Dürrschmidt]

Hey Fulgator. I always prime my figs with dull black spray paint. It´s much more faster.

I think there is no need to buy expensive, special brands for modelling use. I use no-name-spray-paint from the home store. You can get it for half the money as you pay for GW and other spray cans for example. But warm up the spray can on a heating or with hair dryer. So the result gets more flat.

Best example for expensive modelling stuff are the "special" plastic pins for making spears, lances and flagpoles in 1/72. These cost about a 100 times higher price than plastic bristles from a broom. (you get hundrets when you buy one).

[fulgator]

hi

thanks for the reply
i hope a day i will paint and make decors like you

your work are fabulous!

[Alanus]

I have recently started using Vallejo's Grey Black as primer, rather than pure black. I've often used cheap artist's acrylics as primers as well. I haven't had much success with spraying (eg Citadel's Silly Name Black) - it never seems to coat the figures adequately - so I always use a brush.

[je_touche]

I can only subscribe to what Thomas has said. I use an inexpensive grey car spray primer for priming my models. Costs about ten percent of the GW stuff. Only shake well before using.

[Fenton]

I use Black Liquitex Gesso now, gives a good firm undercoat that I find allows the paint not to chip as easily

I always thought that Prince August was a 'cast your own' figure manufacturer in Cork, Ireland.. havnt heard of it as an alternative name for Vajello

[fulgator]

hi

http://www.prince-august.net/peintures.php?cPath=6_24

i think they have the same range than vallejo

but only I think , not realy sure

[Maurice]

Looking at the paint numbers it is Vallejo put under a different name.

[Paul]

Cheap black hobby paint for one or two bods, for large amounts then black matt car spray paint, but it can "puddle" and a lot tends to get "lost".
(also, whatever they write on the can, it can´t be that enviromentally friendly,
I mean the can it´s self when it´s empty is a huge waste)

[Keyvan]

Hey,
since there is already a thread, i post in here.priming figures, there are a lot of options in my eyes.
what do you think of those tamiya primers?
i use mr. surfacer 1200 for my models, very good quality and you can work with it afterwards very well.im not sure though if it will cover details if i use it with my airbrush.
i thought about priming them with tamiyas flat white?
someone told me he uses humbrol white as primer, any ideas?Basing them with tamiyas white would be the best for me personally.im not sure though, maybe you guys could tell me your opinions on this topic.i will use vallejo paints for the figures afterwards.since both are acrylics, this wont be a problem at all...i guess^^
greets
key

[musketier]

I have used both methods (spray can of cheap gray auto primer and I use a brush on primer or a medium gray acrylic paint the latter seems to work very well on plastic figures) the advantage of the brush on is you can get all the crevices coated drawback is time when you are doing more than 8 at a time. Spray on works well but as detailed above you will miss spots with that on figures that'll need touch up later, being careful to spray from 8" plus distance and using a thin coat so as to prevent puddling as best one can, hence the reason I use cheap auto primer as it sets up fast without running.
Anyway I do have a preference for using gray instead of white or black as first coat/primer mainly because I can see the figures details better in that color than the other two.

[Keyvan]

Hey,
thx for your answer, well i guess using vallejos (i.e. grey) should work fine then?tamiya acrylics dont have that many pigments and dont fit for painting with a brush at all.
the reason i asked concerning the airbrush is, that im used to work with the brush because the surface is much better with that.that goes for building models ofc...
i use mr. surfacer 1200 for a base coat usually, thats in grey too.i agree on the fact you see details way better when using grey instead of white.i will just try out now and show the results.
thx again!
greets
key

[Maurice]

I now use a can of gray acrylic spray paint I got for 2 euros or so at an outlet store.

[Keyvan]

well i saw a work of a guy in here, i think his name was antony or smth....egyptian chariots and figures.the surface looks really soft.looks like they were airbrushed, not painted with brush.
thats what i like to achieve.i noticed many figures in here showing a not that even surface.they were still good, but you could tell the difference.well i just need to try out, some hints are nice though.thanks for your advices!
greets
key

[Fabien G]

well, after reading several opened tpics on the subject in this forum, here are what I learned:

- to prime, it's better for paint to stay
- not to prime, because when you do paint gets shinier and details desappear a bit

If you prime:
- spray: (cheap spray, car spay, Rustoleum furniture plastics primer, etc...)
- paint (craft shop acrylic, Vallejo, GamesWorkshop, etc...)

and what colour?
- white
- grey
- black

my conclusion:
There is no single rule... Unfortunatly for me! I like to have a way to follow.

So the solution is to try different techniques and see which is my favourite method?

Oh, one more question: why don't you prime paint with the main colour of the uniform?

[musketier]

One could prime in the color of the uniform you are going to paint. Here is a couple reasons why I do not:

1) if one uses primer(especially spray) in same color you are to paint you cannot see where you missed with the final coat of paint, now this may seem a quick way to paint a figure, primer does not have the same finish as paint does when it dries so when it comes to putting on the final touches, washes and highlights etc it has a tendency to react differently.

2) I like to use the neutral color gray to prime with because it has less of an influence on the shade of color I am using for painting of the uniform. White makes paint tint lighter and brighter, Gray kind of doesn't really influence the paint color too much as white but it does change it as opposed to NOT using a primer. Black darkens the color you are painting it over.

And to reiterate my preference for using a gray primer or undercoat is that I found it best for my eyes to see the detail and its less distracting than white for one needs to extra careful to make sure you cover all the white up. I also want to state that there is no one way or the other when it comes to this subject, but I hope I and the others here have helped you(and all others who read this) get the 'tools' one needs to handle the wonderful hobby of miniature painting, being familiar with all three white,gray and black and its uses will help you in your future projects whatever style you decide to go with.

Thank you all and Class Dismissed ( a little joke hehe)

[Phersu]

On the figures I prefer brush priming as it allow various dilution using more or less thinner.
This to get a flat regular surface and to prevent detail flattening on some parts.

The spray primer is good if you need a quicker and more uniform covering.
I think is perfect for airplanes and tanks flat surfaces for example, on such models the prints of brush strokes should be particularly avoided.

With the brush priming is more difficult to cover well some cavities, but what's the point in priming such deep parts that are out of fingers reach and paint scratching? To make them dark a drop of ink or very thin paint works as well.

One good thing of brush priming is that you can apply thin or thicker layers thinning the primer more or less, or even leave some parts not primed if there's no need.
Thicker layers on the protruding and external parts protect better the paint in case of manipulation.

Thick layers of primer can be modeled while still soft (when not completely dry) and somehow carved or engraved too when dried.
If used very thick the primer can work as a "liquid" putty too.
This is helpful to correct some imperfections or make little conversions.